Kielder – May 2024 (continued again)

Sunday so far has been good. After breakfast we decided, having driven past it severally, to have a short walk down by Kielder Water. The weather is very different today – it had rained most of the night and more is expected. One small downside of our chosen walk was our frost encounter so far with the dreaded midges. Luckily their presence during the weekend was not totally unexpected so we were prepared and a quick application of Smidge was sufficient to protect us.

The Dam wall
The Dam itself
The other side of the dam wall
Back to the original course of the river

Once back we both needed another shower – apart from (real or imaginary) insect itchiness we managed to get quite warm on the walk since the humidity was so high and were a bit sweaty.

After a spell of quiet reading we went out for lunch. We had planned and booked this ahead as we so rarely have anything like a Sunday lunch at Sunday lunchtime and really quite fancied one. The Pheasant Inn at Stannersburn is just over 3 miles from the cottage and proved to be not only an excellent choice but very popular. I had the traditional Sunday roast beef with Yorkshires, etc. – top quality meat superbly cooked, great roast spud and passable Yorkshires. Ally opted for the dressed crab which was (a) mahoosive and (b) obviously nice enough to be dealt with very quickly. An added bonus throughout was getting into conversation with a very nice couple on the next table. Much debate about our recommendations as to where they could go after lunch given it was bucketing down! The suggestion of Howick (Earl Grey’s house – yes that one) and the sensational tearoom seemed to meet with approval.

No photos of food (sorry) and the pub photo is their own taken from the website.Whatever I can highly recommend the pub, the staff, the atmosphere and the food. Menu notes – I wanted the beef that I had but both the lamb and an enticing Mushroom Wellington were very close contenders. Ally never paused once she saw the crab offering!

Patently not today due to lack of rain depicted

Posted in Kielder

Kielder – May 2024 (continued)

We found our cottage quite easily and were greeted by Ann on of the owners. It is what used to be the stable block & coach house for the (very small) hall. Very comfortable though some of the equipment has a Flinstones air about it!

On Saturday morning, as we were up early anyway, we went to find the James Turrell Skyspace at Cat Cairn (quite near here). We knew that the walk uphill from the car park to the actual place was going to be a bit of a challenge for me but, by taking it very steadily, I got there! The terrain ‘forestry’ – possibly one of my least favourites when out in the wilds but the Skyspace was more than adequate compensation.

One reason I dislike forestry terrain!
First sight of the installation
The entrance with seating visible
Simple, beautiful and a perfect day for it

The walk back down to the car was much easier (and considerably quicker!!) and we plotted a route to our next destination. Kirkharle is the birthplace of one Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown. We weren’t actually there for the house & exhibition though. We had heard that the amazing Running Fox Bakery had taken over the café in the Courtyard there and fancied a light lunch. We were lucky with our timing as we managed to get a table though most that arrived after us either had a long wait or were turned away. The Egg Mayo sandwich we shared (because they are HUGE) was really very, very good. We bought cakes which served as puddings after our dinner back at the cottage. Also very good.

The Brown family house
The courtyard café – loads of indoor & outdoor space – all taken or booked!

We had a pleasant evening back at the cottage and decided to watch some old ‘The Thick of It’ episodes – so glad we did and we were left marvelling at how prescient it was.

Posted in Kielder

Kielder – May 2024

Well it isn’t Norway where we should have been today (Trondheim to be precise) but as a sort of consolation we are in a very quiet part of Northumberland for a weekend of relaxation and, so far, it is going well. We are close to Kielder Water in a really very lovely cottage.

We were not in any hurry this morning and left home not too long after 10am. The plan always was to head to Hexham first to get in some supplies and have lunch before heading back north a bit to the cottage.

As it happens – Hexham Abbey (well worth a visit in any circumstances) was the centre of our visit. The Refectory Café if really very good and, for the first time in a long while we lingered and had a proper look at the Abbey.

What follows are a few photos that might give an impression of the place. It is fair to say that I have done more today than any day since “it” happened just 4 weeks ago – I am fair shattered!

A magnificent organ!
Reverse of said organ
Some seriously old stuff!
Just wow!

Tonight we dine here and tomorrow we will take the day as it comes – it has rained a fair bit today and may well tomorrow but we will, no doubt, enjoy a look around an area we don’t know that well

Posted in Kielder, Uncategorized

A short walk and a health update

It is quite hard to believe it is only 12 days since my ‘incident’ and I thought it was time for an update. I am clearly getting used to the beta-blockers now though the main side effect (fatigue – especially after even light exercise) continues to be an issue for me.

I am, for a change, being cautious in my approach and I have an outline plan to improve my stamina by walking. A gradual build up of distance and elevation will be tackled over the next few weeks.

I started this morning by driving down to Yellowcraig beach to have a go at a (very) short and (very) easy walk. Only the second time I have left the house since we got back home on Saturday April 27th!

What a morning it was – although mainly cloudy up to the point I got on to the beach the sun came out and it was wonderfully warm & calm.

Fidra just ‘kissed’ by the sun
A heron just about to take off
One of my morning walk pals Kirsty & her lovely horse

One of the very nice things about this beach is just how many people use it. Walking the dog, exercising the horses, paddling, swimming, paddle boarding and so on. As always I felt completely at peace in what is my favourite place.

Feeling quite happy with my slow stroll I walked the short distance to the wreck that was revealed when most of the sand disappeared in the storms earlier this year. It seems even more of it is on display now.

The wreck with Lamb & Flag, a hazy Bass Rock and the Law
The view of the wreck from the other side – back to Fidra

So I am happy that I managed the exercise well without knocking myself out. The rehabilitation plan will kick off in the next few days.

On the medical front I have seen my GP, had a full set of bloods taken (results, if any, by the end of the week) and am (patiently!) awaiting for the Infirmary Cardiac team to get in touch for follow up examinations that will determine the impact of the ‘incident’ – I am not holding my breath for a speedy response of course.

Posted in Walking updates

Achleek – April 2024 – day 6

After the past three days of rushing about it was nice to have quiet day today. After breakfast we headed over (well round) the loch to Strontian and parked up in the Ariundle Oakwood National Nature Reserve. We had no other objective than to have a wander about but, as luck would have it, there was a well-signposted walk around these ancient oak woodlands.

The start of our walk

It was, as you see bright & sunny but there was a fierce cold edge to the breeze which called for hats & gloves! That said there was a significant variation in that depending on even a slight change in altitude. We found a (dead) tree with interesting fungus – probably Horse Hoof Fungus.

Horse Hoof times 2

The woodland is, in parts, fairly sparse and there were a good few dead trees, something we have seen a lot here (not counting the obvious forestry tax dodges). At all points the walk was very well maintained whether track, boardwalk or bridge and signage was enough but discreet.

The main path + Ally
Boardwalk – you can just make out the replacement bits
One of the bridges + Ally again

There were also (not pictured) several comfy benches on the walk – always a bonus! Near one of them we discovered a cairn for Pip.

RIP (we assume) PIP

That was really it for the walk and for the day barring a visit to a quirky visitor centre café – excellent coffee and significantly heavy and very tasty pastries. My chocolate brownie would have fed a whole platoon and kept them going for a week! We returned home to have a restful afternoon reading & chatting as well as preparing for tonight’s dinner. I’m on cooking duty but I prepared my chilli last (and froze) my chilli last week. Defrosting needed some extra assistance from a complicated microwave with very tiny writing on it!

One last tree – towering above the rest

Posted in Achleek - April 2024

Achleek – April 2024 – days 3, 4 & 5

Because we have been enjoying this holiday so much these (usually) daily updates have fallen by the wayside a little. So a compendium of the last 3 days as we contemplate our last full day.

Monday – after the lovely day that Sunday was we woke to a more overcast day. Our objective for the day was to explore more of the Morvern peninsula (where Sunday lunch was taken). We headed to Ardtonish Castle Gardens and spent a very pleasant time wandering around. A lovely place with an impressive house, clock tower and altogether very pleasant. We returned to the cottage and spent the afternoon chatting, eating drinking and generally having exactly the kind of holiday we wanted.

Simple, quiet place
Nice bridge!
The big house & clock tower
Another cracking sunset

Tuesday – what a glorious morning! Our plan was simple – Mull – so back across the Morvern peninsula to Lochaline to pick up the ferry to Fishnish. It was glorious – coffee was taken at the Bakery & Tearoom, we spotted the Edward the 8th postbox and, most importantly, lunch. The Fisherman’s Pier wins awards and rightly so – sitting by the clock tower munching on haddock, chips & mushy peas is a great thing to do. A couple of purchases were made and we headed back tired but happy.

Incoming ferry
Elevenses!
A rare post box
Luncheon

Wednesday – with another fine day in prospect we packed a lot into the day. I was determined to get out for a local walk – the choice is limited as we are in deer country so much of the land is fenced off. A good walk nevertheless. Once back & breakfasted we set off to explore the Ardnamurchan peninsula. Oh my – what a trip that was! Narrow single track roads, a stunning viewpoint an excellent coffee in Kilchoan and the (community owned) lighthouse at Ardnamurchan Point. Back here we had a simple pasta meal and an early night.

Tree catching the sunrise
I like rocks!
The viewpoint in Glenborrodale
Some of the magnificent stone work at the lighthouse
One of many picnic areas at the lighthouse

All in all a cracking day if a bit challenging for Ally as the driver.

Posted in Achleek - April 2024

Achleek – April 2024 – day 2

Sunday is known as the day of rest and so it proved today. After a leisurely breakfast we went out for a little walk – ahead of us is Loch Sunart and behind us is a big hill so the choice was (roughly) west or east. Since we arrived from the east we decided to head west.

Quiet as this place is it is the road linking the ferries at Lochaline and Ardgour so there were clusters of traffic at regular intervals – yes, even on a Sunday! It was a beautiful calm, still morning as the photos will attest.

First thing
The cottage, the car
The morning develops well

We did see a fair bit of ‘wildlife’ including the following – our first impression was a of a large bird of prey perched in the tree. Close-ups proved us (slightly) wrong 😉

Is it a bird?
Or is it something else?

After our nice short walk we came back to the cottage to prepare ourselves for lunch. We had the foresight to identify and book at a place some 20 minutes away – the Boathouse Restaurant on the Kingairloch estate. It was a lovely drive down ever narrowing roads (and we started on single-track with passing places!) on what was by now a glorious day.

Our dinner was just superb – my cod loin main was perfectly cooked and Ally & Vanessa both had scallops which were also top notch. The drinkers (me & Nessa) had a really very good rosé (from Domaines de Météore) with it. Starters and desserts were also brilliant as were the the two people running it – the chef and a waitress who, we discovered, had lived at Sheepwash Bank which is a mere spit away from where Alison lived back in the day.

Needless to say we had a light supper – cheese & charcuterie again! – and quite an early night. One last bonus, missed by me but seen by Ally & Nessa, were the two pine martens who visit this place most nights.

Monday plans are fluid by which I don’t necessarily mean rain – we will decide as the day dawns.

Posted in Achleek - April 2024

Achleek – April 2024 – day 1

Another of our year of ‘70th birthday treats’ finds us up in the west of Scotland visiting an area we have skirted round many times but never explored in depth. With us for this particular treat is our very good friend Vanessa.

We had a particularly wonderful dinner at Osteria in North Berwick on Friday night followed by a reasonably early start on Saturday morning. We may have overdone the packing as the car was absolutely full with the 3 of us, our luggage and the ‘supplies’ we brought. The self catering cottage (Achleek) is, in broad terms, is near Fort William – more precisely it is on the shores of Loch Sunart pretty much opposite Strontian.

Saturday’s journey up was pleasant and uneventful and it was especially pleasing to have such ‘unusual’ (as in fine dry & quite warm) weather. On the way we stopped in Callander for coffee (and a purchase see below), just outside Tyndrum for a good light lunch and eventually we got the Corran ferry over to Ardgour.

Ferry terminal
Ferry
A magnificent (if small) black coo

The cottage is fine for what we need comfortable and well equipped with stupendous views to the west. A little explore revealed some neighbours (seals!). We did little else on Saturday except launch into a fine selection of cheeses and meats washed down by decent wine. Of course an early night was required

The basking seals

Did I mention facing west? The sunsets promise to be spectacular!

The end of a long day!
Posted in Achleek - April 2024

Funchal – day 6 – the last day

It doesn’t seem like a week but, apparently it is, and this is our last day here. After a cloudy (still warm) start this morning the cloud has, as the afternoon wears on, cleared a fair bit and, as I write, it is really very nice.

Today was the day without a plan – no shortage of things to do but no real impetus for either of us to do much at all. We decided after our leisurely breakfast to walk to the eastern (oldest) port of Funchal along the ‘promenade’ towards the ‘Yellow Fort’. This building stands out (a0 because it is a fort and (b) because it is yellow. No further information is available as it was clearly permanently closed. The tidal defences here are quite something and we enjoyed our gentle stroll along the way. On arrival we discovered a nice bar & stopped for a drink and good views. It was only as we worked out exactly where we were that we realised it was the very bar recommended to us by one of Ally’s pals (a keen walker and frequent visitor to Madeira).

A slow stroll back to the hotel, including the walk up the hill for the first one only time (taxi, bus or coach every other time) As I write this we are on the hotel terrace sipping on a glass of wine after our light lunch.

Tonight dinner here, tomorrow our transfer minibus picks us up between 11:30 & 12:00 and I get to pick up my lost jacket before we fly home. If all goes to timetable it will be 9pm-ish before we get finally home.

A short selection of the few photos I took today follows.

The ‘old’ boat about to fill with passengers for whale watching
The view up the valleys we scaled in the last 2 days
A fairly pointless jetty
Tidal defences
Cable car base station & another view up the way
A yellow fort!
Two old cars (apparently still used)
The bar which had excellent views of … er sea!
Posted in Funchal - March 2024, Holiday stuff

Funchal – day 5

Another very pleasant day today (which apparently is a Saturday!) all the better for being only lightly planned. It also helped that the weather remains warm, sunny and very calm.

Our first port of call was Blandy’s Wine Lodge in the centre of Funchal. It is no surprise that you can’t avoid Madeira wine on this island (my evening Negroni at the hotel has it substituting for the vermouth) and one of the recommended activities is the tour of the main producer. A very reasonable €15 a head gets you a 45 minute tour of the facility which covers all you will ever need to know presented, in our case, by an entertaining young woman.

Courtyard at the entrance
Posters in the shop
Larger barrels
Smaller barrels
The lovely 3D map of grape growing regions on the island

Towards the end of the tour the museum had personal letters from Churchill, thank you notes from various European royalty (including Princess Margaret) and a bottle of 1954 Malmsey (as old as me but worth more probably!

Winston’s letters
Priceless booze

Finally there was a tasting of the two extremes of Madeira – Sercial (the dry one) and Malvasia (or Malmsey). Both nice but still not to our taste.

Stage 2 of the day was a visit to Casa Museu Frederick de Freitas who was a collector of various things (including teapots & mugs!) and is pretty much as he left it.

One of several lovely musical instruments
Part of one of the collections
Another fine musical instrument

Adjoining the house/museum is a museum of well…. tiles. Populat round these parts this was a collection from around the world. One of those supremely focussed & well laid out museums the do. One job really well.

Tiles
More tiles!
A change of colour!
Elegant presentation of the subject – on the right a sample box

Quite exhausted by our packed morning we decided to lunch out again and went back to the Italian where we ate yesterday. Having sampled the pizza we were keen to try the pasta for main course this time but started with bruschetta. Unexpectedly this came warm and with a melted cheese topping but was really very nice. Mains were lasagna for me & cannelloni for Ally and both were excellent. I decided to got the whole hog and have a dessert. Sobramesa de Casa (literally house pudding) was a curious (almost) trifle but topped with chocolate mousse. Sounds awful but it was very good. The picture is our chosen wine which was very good – mind you the Portuguese wine has been the highlight of this holiday for us.

Very good blend!

You can see in the background that Xaramba is a simple place – the (tiny) chef working the oven, one young woman doing drinks and whatever else needed plus the waitress whose calm approach was outstanding. Shortly after we arrived a group of ten (unexpected) turned up and were taken the the stride of the small team. Even when each person wanted to pay separately!

Tonight we will have an evening tipple in the outdoor terrace bar here at our hotel and, since we stuffed ourselves earlier, the lightest of snacks.

Last day tomorrow and we have no idea of what we might do – probably not very much. One thing for sure is we will dine at the hotel since many places will be closed as it is Sunday.

Posted in Funchal - March 2024, Holiday stuff