Berlin 2026 – part five

What a night! After a restful afternoon on Monday we headed out for the the Philharmonie leaving plenty of time to account for public transport, roadworks, other delays, etc. A short walk then to the bus stop on Unter den Linden where we got the 300 bus – final destination the aforementioned hall.

A small crowd gathering for drinks

This building was completed in the early 1960s and has the hallmark of other large scale performance areas of the era. It is, unlike some, very well staffed so it was very easy to deposit our coats in the cloakroom and go up a few flights to get to where the entrance to our seats were.

Our view of the stage (and the warning sign!)

The seats were as well placed as we expected from the purchase, surprisingly comfortable and with plenty of leg room.

The mighty organ!

There is of course a mighty organ and I would be intrigued to hear it in action. The hall itself apparently holds 2,440 people and it was a sold out performance.

The performance itself was way beyond even our high expectations. The opening clarinet concerto was superb and was made all the more interesting by the soloist (Francesco Spendolini) playing a ‘basset clarinet’. Slightly longer than a normal clarinet and thus able to reach lower notes his instrument was a faithful replica of the one that would have been used by Anton Stadler for whom Mozart wrote the piece. It is worth mentioning the orchestra (Le Concert de Nations) at this point. A small band of around 20 players that made a huge sound. Their long standing rapport with the conductor Jordi Savall was clear,

After a short interval the orchestra returned with the choir – The Capella Nacional de Catalunya. I have seen many choral performances in recent times but this group were quite the most entrancing – all exceptional and, clearly, enjoying themselves.

Another sneak shot at the end

The audience obviously enjoyed the performance as much as we did and applauded the band, this soloists and the conductor enthusiastically. The biggest roar of approval and the point where almost everyone rose to their feet came when the choir were indicated. Rightfully so! All in all it was a great evening that will live long in our memories.

Our return to the hotel was quick and painless and, of course, we were so wound up it took ages to get off to sleep. Tuesday promises calmer, dryer weather and it may, eventually, warm up. We have only a loose plan for the day and it will likely involve churches, cathedrals and the like. In the evening we do have a booking at a local recommended restaurant.

Posted in Berlin March 2026

Berlin 2026 -part four

Monday, Monday – not quite so good to us today. We were (sort of) expecting the weather but it was colder, wetter and windier than the forecast intimated. We returned to the cafe we had enjoyed yesterday morning for breakfast during which we hatched a sort of plan. We decided to continue with the idea of going to the East Side Gallery. NO normal gallery this one – it is actually remnants of the wall out near Ostbahnhof with artwork. Al fresco of course and, by then the weather had really got going.

Wall art (with Trabi)
West side
East side (where the Trabi painting is)

Incidentally we did see (hear & smell) a parade of about 6 Trabis yesterday – all carefully restored to a level they probably didn’t have when new!

Though the weather looks fairly benign in the wall art photos it was actually brutal. So we trotted back to Ostbahnhof and invoked Plan B – which was a return visit to my new current favourite book & record shop – Dussmanns is a Berlin institution and rightly so. Having done a good job of investigating the books side of things the other day we had a hot drink in the cafe and then concentrated on the music. Rack upon rack of CDs all waiting to be flipped through (I did!) – I did buy one CD though I could have, had I any way to get the m home, have bought many more. I concentrated on the classical – had I delved further into jazz I might still be there!

View down from 2nd floor
View from the 2nd floor cafe
2nd floor looking right
2nd floor looking right
View from the 3rd floor (Gent’s facilities located on this level!)
A familiar face!!

We decided to ‘eat in’ today and bought substantial sandwiches & buns at local shops as well as a very decent bottle of Aldi wine (a staggering €3.99! and very palatable too)

Next up is the big focus of this break – the concert at the Berliner Philharmoniker featuring Jordi Savall and the Concert de Nations. The main piece is the Mozart Requiem and the ‘support’ piece a Mozart clarinet concerto. More on all that tomorrow.

Posted in Berlin March 2026

Berlin 2026 – part three

Saturday was, necessarily, a day of recovery and Sunday gave us an opportunity to explore Berlin further. We tried a new place for breakfast – not that yesterday’s freshly made croissants weren’t appreciated just that we didn’t really want to wait half an hour to get the breakfast! We liked the new place and will return.

Bellevue Palace

We had decided to do the ‘Hop on, Hop off’ bus tour as we find it a good way of getting round the main sites. It also helps to refine any further plans. The problem is that taking photos from a moving bus with reflective windows isn’t that easy. So not many photos from that trip but we did identify a couple of places we would return to for a better look.

The Victory Column or Siegesäule
The elephants at the entrance to the Zoo
Street art on the Kurfürstendamm

An interesting if convoluted route that essentially bore little resemblance to that marked on the thoughtfully provided map 😉 but we were glad to have done it. Our planned interim exit point from the tour was Checkpoint Charlie.

Checkpoint Charlie

The U.S. Army Checkpoint known as Charlie is on Friedrichstrasse at the junction with Zimmerstrasse and is way more affecting and interesting than we imagined.

Charlie and KFC

I was way too engrossed by the story told on the excellent information boards to take a photo of them but I did get a couple of shots of where the wall was. We were amazed by how thin it seemed but, of course, the wall wasn’t the barrier – the guns were the barrier!

The actual site of the wall
The plaque – plus my foot for scale 😉

The last stretch of the bus tour took us to the Fernsehturm (Television Tower) near Alexanderplatz. No – we didn’t go up it (or even ask) but it was nice to be alongside it as opposed to seeing it from almost everywhere else we had been. Nearby was the Rotes Rathaus (Red Town Hall) – imposing building snd the St Marienkirche (St Mary’s Church).

Rotes Rathaus
St Marienkirche

By now it was getting really cold here in Berlin. Expected but nevertheless uncomfortable so we headed back to the hotel, had a drink & a rest and got ready for dinner. nothing too fancy tonight but we wanted something a little light than the normal elephantine portion sizes we have experience. We chose a tapas restaurant (part of a Melia hotel) just a couple of minutes up the road. It was really quite good and, more tho the point, exactly what we needed.

Posted in Berlin March 2026, Uncategorized

Berlin 2026 – part 2

It is amazing how the human body can be almost regenerated by a good night’s sleep. That happened on our first night in Berlin (for me spectacularly, for Ally more slowly and much more low key). We had no plans at all for the day other than ‘find somewhere nice for breakfast’ and…… er that was it.

Unter den Linden and a protest
The Russian Embassy opposite the protest

Given our location Unter den Linden is not too far away and we were intending a visit to the nearest Tourist Info Office which was at the Brandenburger Tor. We stopped for breakfast at a likely looking place and were delighted by getting freshly cooked croissants. OK it took a while longer than expected but it was very enjoyable.

Frank Gehry’s amazing building
The interior – this is a bank!

So our random wander round Berlin began – the Tor was an obvious draw and is impressive. Just nearby is the quite staggering juxtaposition between the Akademie deer Künste (Art Academy) – all glass – and Frank Gehry’s DZ bank building.

The Tourist Information chap (Sven) was very helpful and we concluded the business we had – which was public transport cards for our stay.

The Brandenburger Tor is a magnificent thing and it was starting to get busy. With the random thing in mind it seemed reasonable to head towards the Riechstag which is close by – more magnificent monumental Berlin of course and close to a waterside stretch that rang many bells (the Guggenheim area in Bilbao mainly). Again more people about and queues forming for the entry to the various attractions.

Reichstag 1
Waterside
Reichstag 3 (plus queues)

Despite not having done much we were both flagging a little and craved some open space – luckily the Tiergarten is adjacent so we had a lovely wander around there. So very quiet and lots of statues – very relaxing. One statue caught my eye – in the middle of a (closed) main road. It is called Der Rufer which means “the caller’ though my vocabulary memory said shout rather than call.

Nice wee lake in the Tiergarten
Mozart & Beethoven on the composer’s memorial (Haydn round the back)

Given our location we decided to seek out the Berliner Philharmonie where we have tickets for a performance by Jordi Savall and his Concert de Nations (Mozart’s Requiem) for Monday night. A striking building inside & out!

Philharmonie 1
Philharmonie 2

One thing to any about this (it is becoming a regular thing) was how we were pulled up sharply and staggered by the reference to history. In this case an excellent display about the extermination and, essentially, the development of the gas for the chambers. I had come across the name Aktion TG4 in my reading in the past but never knew out was the a reference to the hospital where these horrors unfolded. (TiergartenStrasse 4) was the address.

After all this we utilised our public transport card to return to the hotel for a glass of wine and a short rest. Feeling refreshed we went out to pay a visit to the Dussmann shop – or KulturKaufhaus as it is known. Quite the biggest shop devoted to books, music in various formats and much else besides. It was packed with people browsing, lounging, buying and generally having a great time. We were entranced and even made a purchase (a CD box set of Arvo Pärt). We will return and I will get a photo to two to show the scale of it.

By now we were thinking about food and tried a local tapas place but they don’t take bookings on Saturday nights and were doubtful of us getting a table. So we had a drink there – well the cocktail of the month is Negroni so I couldn’t not – and booked for Sunday.

Dinner on Saturday was taken at ‘Einstein Unter den Linden’ an inspired choice which we throughly enjoyed.

That covers our first full day – more to come as I organise my thoughts and photos from Sunday.

Posted in Berlin March 2026, Uncategorized

Berlin 2026 – part one

We have, in the past, promised ourselves a trip to Berlin but somehow never quite got round to it. What follows will be a short roundup of both the journey and our impressions.

Iconic for so many reasons – the Brandenburger Tor

Having decided to use up one of our current Interrail passes to make the journey it was a relatively simple exercise to pull together the planning and preparation. TBH it should be given we are getting to be old hands at this lark.

No photos from day 1 of our travels – Drem to Edinburgh to London to Paris took around 10 hours elapsed and we dined and stayed at Le Robinet d’Or near Gare du Nord just off the Canal St Martin. A brilliant little family run business that, despite being only 10 minutes walk, is almost on a different plane (or planet even!)

Köln HBF – platform 4 on a dull wet day

Day 2 of the journey was the more challenging just in terms of how long we spent on trains – around 9 hours with an hour waiting for our connection in Köln. Well that wait wasn’t quite as calm as it sounds – being the idiot I can sometimes be I actually left my backpack on the Paris-Köln train. Having dashed back to the platform the train was all locked up so pains really started to set in, I happened to spot two of the crew and asked in my best German if they could help. As I did so the young lady said “is it this one?” Much relief of course and I was immensely grateful.

The journey from Köln to Berlin was mostly accompanied by heavy rain and was otherwise notable only for the 5 hour duration. We had a quick (unmemorable) meal and an early night of course.

More coming soon but the leading photo of the Tor is a sort of pivot into the first full (if lazy) day.

Posted in Berlin March 2026, Uncategorized

Switzerland 2025

Back to my more usual blogging platform today because there is a fair amount to relate. If you have been following my FaceBook so far, you will now we are in Lausanne after what turned out to be a relatively incident-free journey on Wednesday and Thursday (despite threatened industrial action in France. Today (Friday) has been our first full day and we had no firm plans other than a vague “mooch about the locality” idea.

We had our breakfast at the Café/Tearoom a few minutes walk away down by the lake. Perfectly adequate but we think we spoiled ourselves with the Paris breakfast on Thursday morning – same ingredients (juice, coffee & croissant) but so much better.

So once ready we set off on the local Metro up to the stop nearest the Cathedral and headed there. Wow! I don’t get too wound up about cathedrals generally but this was a real cracker.

The (current) main door to Lausanne cathedral

The last picture showed how we got in BUT the old door is a magnificent preservation.

Old door with original colours showing on angel’s wings
Exterior shot of ‘old’ door

You may note the rose window – more on that later but this church has the most impressive stained glass we have seen in many years.

Stunning use of colour here

More glass!

Just right for the morning sun!
The impact of Sun & window combined!

I can spot a good rose window from miles and love the see both interior & exterior – this is a particularly fine example

The Rose Window

Naturally my running theme of organs continues – Lausanne has the usual (for big places) two a minor (!) and a Mighty Organ

The”minor” organ
The Mighty Organ with stained glass above & below

After almost an hour at the Cathedral we went a little further up the hill to the Chateau St-Maire – only viewed form the outside but with views over the city.

The Chateau St-Maire
Some amazing statuary!
A view back to the Cathedral
City & mountains

After all that we started on the walk back down to the city centre down Market Street – partially preserved and partially ‘made safer’ with lots of ‘artisan’ shops and cafés and a pleasant atmosphere,

Market Street
The view back up Market Street

Following all that ‘old town’ excitement we wandered thought the more modern city centre. Much if it is being noisily rebuilt with a major engineering project making progress anywhere more difficult than it needs to be. We decided to continue on the 15 minute or so walk back down to the port of Ouchy where we are staying.

Tired but happy we ‘“accidentally” fell into an Italian restaurant, had a wonderful meal and realised that Lausanne has ‘got its teeth into us’ – we love it.

Posted in Holiday stuff, Lausanne - September 2025

Interrail 2025 – part seven

A quiet Sunday spent as it should be by doing very little. We were out this morning and returned to the apartment (have I mentioned how much we like it?) for a long lunch.

A bit more about Nancy first – apart from being “stunning, different, friendly, interesting and varied” as I said yesterday – Nancy further endears itself in a variety of ways. The STAN public transport network is free to all on Saturday & Sunday and is well used by locals as well as tourists. Also the first Sunday of every month means that certain groups (I think we qualified due to our age) get into museums for free. Both these things make Nancy an easy and very welcoming place for visitors.

So today’s activity was limited to a 20 minute walk to the Musée de l’Ecole de Nancy which has an amazing collection of Art Nouveau pieces. A few pictures to follow;

The exterior – before the bag search!
One of a series of desks I coveted
A display cabinet that outshines the content
Another the same!
Wall lamp taken to extremes!
A dining room setting I could get used to
Lovely bed that Ally hated (moths you see!)
What do you mean? This bath isn’t over the top is it?
Bathroom decoration
Another desk I would like
The Aquarium building (not in use)
Not terribly sure what this is but we liked it

After all that we walked back into the centre and Place Stanislas which was getting busier and also decided to head back to the apartment and saw this on the way!

Poor photo but the ‘health’ building – spa & thermal baths included

After a nice lunch at the dining table, during which we watched the neighbours (two young-ish women) clear their small garden. Quite the work ethic there and web as usual enjoyed watching other folk work hard.

Late afternoon we decided to finish off our Art Nouveau day with another key landmark in Nancy. Just near the Sacre-Coeur church the Villa Majorelle is the first Art Nouveau house (apparently) and is stunning.

Yet another church!
First view of the Villa
Another door

Entry to the museum is, as I mentioned free, but not without “rules” as was the museum earlier. Bag check expected but the blue plastic (murder scene) overshoes seemed a bit excessive. That said this is a real house where someone lived rather than the exhibition space we saw earlier in the day.

Fetching but very nearly didn’t fit!
An amazing fireplace
Another fireplace
Staircase, window and pendant light
The most amazing bedroom & bed – a beautiful room
What can I say? I want a wardrobe like this

A short but invigorating visit to a real house that made a whole statement about an artistic movement. A good way to spend time!

On our way back we popped in the aforementioned church – not much to say about this one.

Quite the size once inside
Of course – another mighty organ!
A wee (friendly) visitor to ‘our’ garden

So the day is done almost, the weather forecast(s) for tomorrow disagree once again and we feel the need to explore around Nancy. We will after all be coming back! Perhaps Metz is a place to see – we had intended to stay there for this part of the holiday but were swayed by Nancy. Least we can do is visit 😉

Posted in Interrail 2025, Uncategorized

Interrail 2025 – part six

Yesterday (Friday 30th) was a travel day and involved a very early start, a tram, three trains and a bus. Heidelberg to Nancy isn’t actually that complicated but the timing & connections made it ‘interesting’ to plan.

As it happened it was a breeze – once at Hiedelberg Hbf we hopped on the next available train to Karlsruhe where we were to change for the quick hop to Strasbourg. Karlsruhe turned out to be a nice place. We had about 90 minutes as there were no other suitable trains prior to the one we had booked reservations on so only saw the area immediately surrounding the station.

The exterior of the Hbf with the bus & tram station in front
The nice park we sat beside for our breakfast – a city zoo would you believe!

The rest of the journey was relatively painless – the hop to Strasbourg took around 45 minutes and was on a very busy TGV (Munich to Paris) but was comfy enough. We were offered refreshments but 10am seemed a but early for a beer and I had had my coffee for the day!

By the time we reached Nancy it was getting seriously warm so we stopped at the bar outside the station for a drink (my first good cold beer of this holiday). Within an hour we were in the wonderful apartment we had booked. That evening we dined (very) locally, by which I mean a 5 minute walk. Nothing fancy but most welcome as we had skipped lunch somehow!

Now to Nancy – I am not exactly sure when we have fallen so completely in love with a place – perhaps it was Cadiz some 7 or so years ago. But never so instantly – this place is stunning, different, friendly, interesting and varied. We know we will be back and probably soon once we work out the best way to get here from Edinburgh (it may involve trains)

This morning dawned warm and we were both refreshed after an excellent night’s sleep. We decided to head out to get ahead of the crowds and the expected heat.

Our first view of what was to come! Eglise Saint-Sebastian
Deserted shopping street (shops open at 10 or later)
Another deserted street – plan coming together!

What we hadn’t been quite properly prepared for was Place Stanislas – a massive square (with a statue of Stan in the middle) surrounded by large (monumental even) buildings. We were tempted by the Grand Café Foy but elected instead to choose a smaller place on the other side of the square.

Grand Café Foy
The massive square with Stan & some pigeons
A gate/fountain (one of several)
A subtle Arch!
Another gate/fountain!

We took breakfast at our chosen café – a good selection of bread, viennoiserie, coffee, tea, etc. – and then moved into Parc de la Pepiniere and, though we were already entranced, Nancy worked the very special magic. This park has so much going on that attracts people of all sorts – the next few photos will only hint at the riches but chief amongst them were several comfy benches to sit and ponder.

A bandstand devoted to Mozart and a chap doing good (but very slow) t’ai chi
The rose garden – looked & smelled wonderful
Roses, a spire & Wes Anderson inspired shot
A very popular (with kids & adults) set of fountains
Those same fountains at their height
Another church
Another mighty organ

Sightseeing done, heat rising and crowds thickening Ally bought some new reading & sun glasses and we stopped to discuss lunch choices. I spotted a café that did a cheese/charcuterie planchette so we ordered up some wine and one of those and really enjoyed it. There was a patisserie nearby where several purchases were made – we like puds and have missed the ‘proper’ stuff!

Back to the apartment (the a/c is a blessing! and yes I will switch it off soon) and it wasn’t long before the storm arrived – thunder was heard and it rained very heavily – for about an hour in total. No idea at all what tomorrow might hold as we are getting to the point of ‘let’s just roll with it on the day’ as we usually do towards the end of a holiday.

Posted in Interrail 2025

Interrail 2025 – part five

Today (Thursday) is Christi Himmelfahrt or Ascension Day as we might know it. The main impact on us is that transport is more limited than usual and most shops are shut. It feels very much like (those older ones among us might remember) what Sunday used to be like.

We did find, however, that Heidelberg Castle was open and, since the weather was dry and quite warm, we set off to ‘do’ that. A bus from the end of our street took us directly to the (mainly deserted) Altstadt within a short walk to the Kornmarkt and funicular number 1 up the the actual castle.

This place was heaving on Tuesday!
Very modern, very efficient and superbly helpful staff too!

We were feeling quite smug for, as we thought, avoiding the crowds by going early. On reaching the top we realised our misunderstanding! Hordes of people, mostly of Oriental background, had already arrived by coach.

Just the queue for the courtyard!

Undeterred we strolled past (through) this crowd and took in the terrace area of the castle. This area was blessedly quiet and afforded, amongst other things, magnificent views across the Neckar to where we were in the rain yesterday evening.

The Alte Brücke and the site of the Philosophers Walk

The ruins are really quite spectacular – the ‘lean-to’ remains of the round tower were remarkable.

What I believe to be “The Fat Tower”

The whole castle was way, way over the top but still quite arresting.

Remarkably complete bits of the castle

As we walked we heard a commotion – it tuned out to be a duck protecting the young. About 190 of them we thing and cute as anything. We kept our distance of course so as to minimise any further disruption.

That far and no further!

Neck up was Vater Rhein – a rather tired looking old statue close to the prison section.

Buddy can you spare a dime?

By now, as we headed back towards the funicular we saw the courtyard was (slightly) less busy so went to have a look. Set up for an upcoming music festival and still hordes of people.

Relative quiet!
A good sun dial spotted jut as the sun disappeared behind a cloud!

I couldn’t resist a signpost to “The Big Barrel” (Das Grosser Fass) in what turned out to be a significant bar area (no drink was taken by us!) Of course there was a big barrel (and an even bigger one!)

Big Barrel or Heidelberg Tun
Bigger barrel!
The bar

Next up (literally) was the funicular 2 to the mid station and funicular 3 (the antique) to the top and Königstuhl (King’s Seat). A slow and interesting journey to about 1800ft above sea level with views across the plain to Mannheim & beyond.

Arriving to transport us up!
Flat as far as the eye can see!

We headed back via the 3 funicular trains to ground level where a lot of people were out strolling. We were lucky enough to grab a table at the Café Schafheutle where we had coffee & cake on Tuesday and also lucky enough to catch breakfast (it runs until 12:30). so we feasted on an absolutely wondeful cheese omelette each as a brunch/lunch before buying a cake or two to bring back with us.

Since then we have rested of course, had a walk round the locality partly to stretch our legs a bit more and partly to locate the bottle bank. We are both ‘as packed as we can be’ ready or the early start tomorrow morning – a 5am alarm to get us on the road to Nancy via Heidelberg, Karlsruhe and Strasbourg. A tram and 3 trains ‘should’ get us there by lunchtime but we have flexibility in the plan to adjust. Once again the power of the Interrail Pass comes in handy 😉

The only thing we have to watch out for tomorrow is the weather – this time extremely high temperatures – we have water & sun lotion so we should be OK. As for the transport system – who knows?

Posted in Interrail 2025, Uncategorized

Interrail 2025 – part four

Today was always going to be about ‘post travel day’ resting, settling into the apartment and getting to know Heidelberg. The apartment is a bit on the quirky side but comfortable nevertheless. Our remaining questions of last night (where the heck is the washing machine and where have the hosts hidden the iron) were answered. Our hosts live next door and Gerold came by, with ironing board & iron and then took us into the cellar where the laundry facilities (shared with Gerold & his partner Ina) were situated.

Having sorted that we decided to head out for breakfast. We are on the south side of the river (Neckar) over the bridge from the town & old town. So we headed in the general direction to a likely looking café down by the river (River Café but not that one!). Nice croissant & good coffee/camomile tea.

View across into the Altstadt

We then walked over the bridge to Bismarckplatz and picked up Hauptstrasse. We ambled up there slowly, dropping in to various churches & one or two of the shops that were open (still only just gone 10am) as far as the immense Heilggeistkirche.

Bunsen!
Great sculpture 1
Great sculpture 2
Interesting clock – not sure what the shop sold 😉
Church 1
Mighty organ 1 (church 1)

It was here that as sort of theme developed as you will see form subsequent photos.

Church 2
Church 2, organ 1
Church 2 organ 2

Lots of other building of course – including this one. Also another theme developing – namely how many vehicles there were in a supposed pedestrian area!

Oops! Wrong photo & can’t figure how to delete it!
The Hotel Ritter – similar to the church though!

The biggest church was just staggering – lovley modern windows, two organs! And a real sense of peace.

Some idea of the scale of the building
The best of the windows – Hiroshima themed
Church 3, organ 1
Church 3, organ 2
Church 3, organ 2, shot 2
Church 3 – exterior shot of earlier windows

The castle was looming over us but the sun was way too bright to get a decent picture

Then we went down to the river to take a look at the Alte Brücke – not ancient for probably obvious reasons but impressive.

Those towers and a view of how quickly the town was filling up

Finally we called in at Café Schafheutle for kaffee/kuchen – one of Germany’s finest traditions!

Menu & cake selection
Café interior where we sat with a view to the garden

All in all a good morning wander that gave us a clearer view of where we are. As it happens we passed, early on our walk, a restaurant that is open this evening. Tuesday is the Ruhetag or rest day here so a few places are closed. It is, of course, a Spanish place that does wine & tapas!

We have no idea, due to changing weather forecasts, what we will do tomorrow but a castle visit (via funicular) and a boat trip are both possible. Thursday is Ascension Day – many of the shops will be shut but we don’t know if (or how) it will affect attractions & restaurants.

Posted in Interrail 2025